Behind the scenes adventures for visitors and inhabitants from across Canada.
Bicycling is the best way to explore the Gaspé's craggy coast, sprinkled with quaint villages you might otherwise miss. A few steep climbs along the way are worth the effort.
BY ANDRÉ DÉSIRONT
"You're touring the Gaspé by bike! So you've climbed la Madeleine?"
Gaspésiens all know about "la Madeleine", a six-kilometre hill outside the little village of Rivière-Madeleine. And when you say, "Yes, I've climbed la Madeleine," they compliment you on your physical fitness and eye you as if you are a deranged masochist.
La Madeleine is the first in a series of dizzying rises and descents between Rivière-Madeleine and Forillon National Park. It's the longest of these hills, but not the most agonizing. Cyclotourists who have previously circled the Gaspé Peninsula in a clockwise direction know from experience that when they leave Rivière-Madeleine, they're in for two days of hell - or pleasure, depending on their outlook - and that the second day will be even harder than the first. Between Saint-Yvon and Cap-des-Rosiers at the eastern end of Highway 132, the succession of hills seems endless.
I have cycled the loop tour of the peninsula several times now, and la Madeleine has become my point of reference. When I get there, I know that it's the end of my favourite part of the entire 900-kilometre journey - the segment that stretches along the coast from Sainte-Anne-des-Monts to Rivière-Madeleine. After Rivière-Madeleine and its horrendous hill, the road twists away from the shoreline and snakes through the Monts Chic-Chocs foothills for the next 20 kilometres. Cycling this segment, you often have to leave Highway 132 for detours into villages along the way to continue seeing dramatic views of capes and rugged coastline.
Along the entire 100-kilometre portion between Sainte-Anne-des-Monts and Rivière-Madeleine, the road hugs the shore at the base of the cliffs, so you merely have to lift your head to see astounding vistas. Every 10 kilometres or so, there's another village with a lyrical name - like Tourelle, Marsoui, Ruisseau-à-Rebours, L'Anse-Pleureuse, Gros Morne or Manche d'Épée - nestled around a bay where there's just enough space between cliff and ocean for a couple of dozen houses. Standing like sentinels over most of the hamlets are red and white striped lighthouses, now automated and converted into museums.
Fishermen from Montmagny, l'Islet and Île d'Orléans first settled these villages a little over a century ago. They would take refuge along the coast during major late-autumn storms, only to later find themselves hemmed in by ice. Some fishermen put down roots here for closer access to the schools of cod.
Depleted fish stocks and over-forestation have left their descendants in relative poverty.
The resulting starkness of the villages suits the rocky setting. Most travellers pass through without stopping, in a rush to visit the more tourist-oriented Forillon National Park or Percé Rock.
During my periodic visits over the last 25 years, nothing much has changed. You might expect to find a handful of charming restaurants and upscale inns in Mont-Saint-Pierre, which - as eastern Canada's "hang-gliding capital" - is the most visited of these remote villages. But, no. Mont-Saint-Pierre has the same three or four motels, with outmoded names like Les Délices and Les Flots Bleus, it had 20 years ago. On the upside, the lack of development has allowed this portion of the coast, known as the Upper Gaspé, to preserve its unspoiled appeal.
So, I know the big hill outside Rivière-Madeleine will wrench me away from all this coastal charm and take me into the backcountry. But I also know I'll be rewarded for my efforts 20 kilometres further on, at the viewpoint just before the road drops into Grande-Vallée. The panorama spans the entire village, whose church and presbytery rise from an enormous rocky outcrop, as if placed there by a divinely inspired decorator.
As a regular traveller on the loop formed by Highway 132 around the peninsula - this is my fourth time cycling it - I've learned when to turn my head for breathtaking scenery and which side roads lead to the not-to-be-missed lookouts, museums, attractions and lighthouses. I've recorded addresses and favourite stops along the route.
In Petite-Vallée, which calls itself the "Village en chanson", an exhibition hall retraces the history of French song back to La Bolduc. [La Bolduc is the nickname for author-composer-performer Mary Travers-Bolduc, who hailed from the Gaspé and is celebrated as the first French-Canadian chansonnière.] You could spend two hours there, headphones on, enjoying the hits that inspired so many generations of Quebecers to dance. In Forillon National Park, I always try to overnight in Cap-des-Rosiers, just to tuck into a bowl of bouillabaisse at Chez Mona, the area's best eatery. With luck, the fog rises as I leave the restaurant, casting an eerie spell underlined by the moan of a foghorn.
In the town of Gaspé, where a local committee endeavours to repair the errors of the past (chiefly the four-lane road, built in the 1970s, that cuts off the town from its superb bay), I like to linger in one of the sidewalk terraces on Rue de la Reine and then dine at Brise-Bise, the town's liveliest bistro-bar.
I discover something new on every visit to the peninsula. This year it was l'Anse-à-Beaufils near Percé, where a clutch of culture vultures has converted a former fish-processing plant into an arts centre. The ground floor houses an entertainment venue, a boutique selling locally grown products and one of the peninsula's most popular bistro-restaurants. Upstairs is a large art gallery where summertime visitors can watch some 15 painters, sculptors and other artists at work. The place is luring more and more visitors as word spreads about Vieille Usine.
Also in l'Anse-à-Beaufils, Rémi Cloutier, a remarkable storyteller, has brought an old general store back to life, with shelves, wares, counters and goods stashed exactly as they were more than 100 years ago. The original store was owned by Charles Robin and Company, a firm of merchant traders from Jersey in the Channel Islands, who once operated all over the Gaspé.
After l'Anse-à-Beaufils comes Chaleur Bay, where the scenery isn't quite so spectacular. Although the terrain is relatively flat, cyclists often have to battle the prevailing winds out of the west. But one more heaven-sent treat awaits before you complete the Gaspé loop tour: a day of pedalling alongside the Matapédia, one of the prettiest salmon rivers in eastern Canada.
For more information on this or other Canadian destinations, visit the Canadian Tourism Commission's website at www.travelcanada.ca.
Calgary Stampede
Calgary, July 8-17, 2005
Live entertainment, races, food, rodeos and more comprise what is known as "the greatest outdoor show on earth".
www.calgarystampede.com
Klondike Days Exposition
Edmonton, July 21-30, 2005
Paying tribute to Alberta's gold-rush past, this fair features rides, entertainment, races, a country showcase and more.
www.klondikedays.com
Big Valley Jamboree
Camrose, July 28-31, 2005
A field beside the Camrose Exhibition Grounds plays host to crowds of country music fans and the performers they love.
www.bigvalleyjamboree.com
Edmonton International Fringe Theatre Festival
Edmonton, August
Ten days' worth of theatre and activities mark the oldest Fringe Theatre event in Canada, held in Old Strathcona
www.fringetheatreadventures.ca
Edmonton Folk Music Festival
Edmonton, August 4-7, 2005
Gallagher Park becomes an international music venue where one can hear musicians perform fold, reggae, country, blues and bluegrass live.
www.edmontonfolkfest.org
Masters Tournament
Spruce Meadows, September 7-11, 2005
The crème of the equestrian world meets in Spruce Meadows to hold this spectacular show-jumping horse competition.
www.sprucemeadows.com
Niagara Grape and Wine Festivals
Niagara Region, mid January/mid June/late September
Wine lovers are treated to wine tastings, winery tours and various forms of entertainment and cuisine in Ontario's renowned winemaking region.
www.grapeandwine.com
Stratford Festival of Canada
Stratford, April to November
Set in the picturesque town of Stratford, world-class actors present musicals and plays, both contemporary and classical.
www.stratford-festival.on.ca
Pride Week
Toronto, late June/early July
A week of parties and entertainment precede the Dyke March and Pride Parade.
www.pridetoronto.com
Molson Indy
Toronto, mid July
Although the heart-stopping speed of the cars racing at Exhibition Place is the main attraction, a variety of Toronto-wide events accompany the Molson Indy.
www.molsonindy.com
Toronto International Film Festival
Toronto, September
Toronto gets a large taste of Hollywood and the International film elite when this festival begins its screenings of hundreds of films from around the world.
www.bell.ca/filmfest
Kitchener-Waterloo Oktoberfest
Kitchener-Waterloo, October
Beer, music, dancing and food are all on tap at North America's largest Bavarian festival.
www.oktoberfest.ca
Harbourfront Reading Series
Toronto, late October to early November
Internationally acclaimed authors gather in Toronto for readings, discussions and book-signings.
www.readings.org
Canadian Aboriginal Festival
Toronto, late November
Celebrating North American Aboriginal culture and heritage, this impressive festival includes food, art, music, lacrosse, dancing and more.
www.canab.com
Jazz Winnipeg Festival
Winnipeg, June 16-25, 2005
Over 50 of the best Jazz and Blues musicians meet in Winnipeg to offer a series of concerts.
www.jazzwinnipeg.com
Red River Exhibition Park
Winnipeg, June to July 2005
This popular Manitoba event includes competitions, animal shows, creative contest, concerts, family attractions and more.
www.redriverex.com
Winnipeg Folk Festival
Winnipeg, July 7-10, 2005
Fine musicians are attracted from around the world to perform in this celebration of people and music.
www.winnipegfolkfestival.ca
Manitoba Stampede and Exhibition
Morris, July 21-24, 2005
Entertainment, crafts, cabaret performances and a petting zoo play a supporting role to a thrilling professional rodeo.
www.manitobastampede.ca
Canada's National Ukrainian Festival
Dauphin, July 29-31, 2005
This event celebrates the vibrant Ukrainian culture with food, dancing, performances, parties, contests, a heritage village and memorial park.
www.cnuf.ca
Islendingadagurim
Gimli, July to August
The larges Icelandic community outside of Iceland holds this festival that includes concerts, rides, dances, contests, food, art and a film festival.
www.icelandicfestival.com
Opaskwayak Indian Days
The Pas, August 2005
Hosted by the Ospaskwayak Cree Nation, this event pays tribute to the Cree culture with a pageant, canoe races, moose calling, and a square dancing competition.
www.thepas.ca/index2.htm
Annual Brant Wildlife Festival
Vancouver, April 8-10, 2005
Parksville and Qualicum Beach celebrate nature, art and outdoor fun as their foreshores become a staging area for some 20,000 migrating Pacific Black Brant Geese.
www.brantfestival.bc.ca
The World Championships of Sand Sculpture
Harrison, Competition: September 06-11, 2005, Exhibition: until October 10, 2005
The most gifted of sand sculptors compete and create and incredible display of sand art.
www.harrisand.org
Weetama: Whistler's Celebration of Aboriginal Culture
Whistler, August
Music, art, interpretive dances, feasts, mythology, educational lectures and blessings from the Whistler-area "Coast Salish" peoples.
www.tourismwhistler.com/to_do/events.asp?sm=8&sy=2005
Vancouver International Children's Festival
Vancouver, May
Over 80 children's entertainers fill the festival with face-painting, stories, concerts and oodles of fun.
www.childrensfestival.ca
Nelson International Street Performers and Arts Festival
Nelson, late July
This bustling street festival hosts performers, buskers, crafts and food from across the globe.
www.streetfest.bc.ca
Okanagan Wine Festivals
Okanagan Valley, January (Icewine)/May (Spring)/August(Summer)/October (Fall)
These consist of wine competitions, and tastings and tours in British Columbia's very own lush wine-growing region.
www.thewinefestivals.com
Williams Lake Stampede
Williams Lake, June 30-July 3, 2005
People from around the world flock to this stampeded to get a taste of heart-thumping rodeo competitions and soul-warming Western hospitality.
www.williamslakestampede.com
HSBC Celebration of Light
Vancouver, July 27, July 30, August 3, August 6, 2005
Three countries compete to awe crowds with a spectacular display of fireworks.
www.celebration-of-light.com
Lamèque International Baroque Music Festival
Lamèque, late July
A series of beautiful baroque music held in theSaint-Cécile church on Lamèque Island.
festivalbaroque.acadie.net
New Brunswick Highland Games and Scottish Festival
Fredericton, July 22 to 24, 2005
This event celebrates Celtic culture with highland dancing and music - including the bagpipes and traditional food.
www.nbhighlandgames.com
Atlantic Balloon Fiesta
Sussex, September 9-11, 2005
Colourful and innovative hot air balloons take to the air while music, crafts and other events take palace on the ground.
www.atlanticballoonfiesta.com
Harvest Jazz & Blues Festival
Fredericton, early to mid September
Choose from nearly 140 jazz and blues concerts performed in five blocks over five days.
www.harvestjazzandblues.com
Yukon International Storytelling Festival
Whitehorse, June
Focusing on - but not restricted to - circumpolar countries, this storytelling festival attracts performers from around the world.
www.yukonstory.com
Dawson City Music Festival
Dawson City, July
A midnight sun shines down on this popular festival full of music, dance and family fun.
www.dcmf.com
Discovery Days Festival
Dawson City, August
Looking back at the discovery of gold that began the 1898 Gold Rush, this festival includes parades, games and delicious pancake breakfasts.
www.tourdawsoncity.com
The Charlottetown Festival
Charlottetown, late may to mid October
This festival boasts music, art and theatre, including Anne of Green Gables - The Musical, the longest running musical in Canada.
www.confederationcentre.com
Festival of Lights
Historic Charlottetown Waterfront, late June/early July
This Canada Day celebration includes nightly concerts, international buskers, carnival midway and fireworks.
www.visitcharlottetown.com
Celtic Festival
Summerside, late June to late August
Includes pipe bands, solo pipers and drummers, highland and step dancers, and the Celtic Festival Concert Series.
www.collegeofpiping.com
PEI International Shellfish Festival
Charlottetown, September
A celebration of PEI shellfish, including oysters, mussels and clams. Includes plenty of entertainment.
www.peishellfish.com
Nunavut Snow Challenge
Iqaluit, March
This gruelling 320 kilometre snowmobile race features experienced northern snowmobile racers moving over beautiful but treacherous terrain.
www.nunavuttourism.com/EventCalendar.asp
Toonik Tyme
Iqaluit, mid-April
Square dances, drum dancing, traditional games, igloo-building contests and community feasts are on the menu as Iqaluit celebrates the return of the sun.
www.nunavuttourism.com/EventCalendar.asp
Arctic Food Celebration
Iqaluit, June
A showcase of the Arctic's most mouth-watering cuisine. (Visit the website below for time and location)
www.nunavuttourism.com/EventCalendar.asp
The Midnight Sun Marathon
Arctic Bay, July
A series of marathon and road races that take place while the sun shines brightly - at midnight.
www.nunavuttourism.com/EventCalendar.asp
Kitikmeot Northern Games
Kitikmeot Region, early August
This festival revolves around the people of the Kitikmeot Region. There is serious competition in traditional and modern games, and a Northern Feast.
www.nunavuttourism.com/EventCalendar.asp
Nova Scotia International Tattoo
Halifax, end June to early July
More than 2,000 performers gather in Halifax for an extravaganza of music, dance and pageantry featuring Canadian and international, military and civilian performers.
www.nstattoo.ca
Antigonish Highland Games
Antigonish, mid July
Traditional Scottish Highland Games with clan gathering, concerts, dancing, drumming, piping and heavyweight events. With a fine outdoor tattoo and the Concert Under the Stars.
www.antigonishhighlandgames.com
Évagéline
Church Point, mid July to mid August
Through song, dance and music, Longfellow's heartrending tale of Acadian lovers Évagéline and Gabriel is brought vividly to life.
www.evangeline-musical.com
Celtic Colours International Festival
Cape Breton, mid October
Some 300 of the finest Celtic musicians, singers, dancers and storytellers perform against a backdrop of autumn foliage.
www.celtic-colours.com
The New Founde Lande Trinity Pageant
Trinity, June to September 2005
A musical journey through the roads, lands and historic site of Trinity. Meet colourful characters from the past.
www.risingtidetheatre.com
Stephenville Theatre Festival
Stephenville, mid July to mid August
A classical repertoire performed by a professional summer theatre company that produces a range of shows, including original Canadian works.
www.stf.nf.ca
Labrador Straits Bakeapple Fold Festival
Labrador Straits, August
Features local culture, nightly entertainment and local food celebrating bountiful harvest of the northern bakeapple (aka cloudberry).
www.labradorcoastaldrive.com
Newfoundland & Labrador Folk Festival
St. John's, August 5-7, 2005
This event celebrates the artistic traditions of St. John's with music, folklore and dancing.
www.sjfac.nf.net
Formula One Grand Prix
Montréal, June 2005
The greatest Formula One drivers from around the globe race on the Gilles Villeneuve circuit.
www.grandprix.ca
Festival International de Lanaudière
Joliette, June/July
Canada's largest classical music festival showcases nationally and internationally renowned soloists in concerts and recitals
www.lanaudiere.org
Montréal International Jazz Festival
Montréal, June 30 to July 10, 2005
Some of the world's top jazz talents converge on Montréal to perform at indoor and outdoor concerts.
www.montrealjazzfest.com
Québec city Summer Festival
Québec City, July 7 to 17, 2005
Québec plays host to international performers from over 20 countries, who fill the air with music in a variety of street and stage show.
www.infofestival.com
Just for Laughs
Montréal, July 14 to 24, 2005
Heralded as the world's largest comedy event, this festival draws the famous, the talented and the as-yet-undiscovered who perform in a dazzling variety of shows and displays.
www.hahaha.com
Festival International de Poésie de Trois-Rivières
Trois-Rivières, September 30 to October 9, 2005
Ninety minutes from Montréal, this poetry festival attracts poets from around the world and offers more than 400 poetry-related activities.
www.fiptr.com
Mosaic
Regina, June 2 to 4, 2005
Visit pavilions spread across Regina to experience food, entertainment and culture from around the world.
www.reginamulticulturalcouncil.ca/mosaic.htm
SaskTel Saskatchewan Jazz Festival
Reginak, Saskatoo, June 25 to July 4, 2005
Jazz artists converge on Saskatoon and Regina to perform in ticketed and free concerts.
www.saskjazz.com
Saskatchewan Air show
Moose Jaw, July 9 & 10, 2005
Flying demonstrations and static displays draw families of plane-lovers to this awesome aeronautic show.
www.saskatchewanairshow.com
Shakespeare on the Saskatchewan Festival
Saskatoon, July 6 to August 14, 2005
Shakespearean plays held in large tents on the banks of the Saskatchewan river.
www.shakespeareonthesaskatchewan.com
Saskatoon International Fringe Festival
Saskatoon, July to August
Performers from around the world put on a variety of plays for adults and children.
www.25thstreettheatre.com
Regina Folk Festival
Regina, August
Amidst workshops, an art market, kids events and a food court, the top alternative/mainstreat musical talents of Regina give live performances.
www.reginafolkfestival.com
Canada Remembers International Air Show
Regina, August
Air demonstrations and a ground show make up this tribute to the veterans of World War Two.
www.canadaremembersairshow.com
Canadian Western Agribition
Regina, November 21 to 26, 2005
Called Canada's "premier select Ranch Horse competition and sale," this event includes a variety of shows and a rodeo.
www.agribition.com
Claude-Jean Harel operates Great Excursions, a Regina-based tour and consulting company that stages and develops "behind the scenes" tourism experiences that incorporate a variety of interpretative techniques. He brings to tourism 20 years of broadcast media experience in the fields of culture, heritage and science, generating national and international attention for the distinctive qualities of the North American Plains region. Claude-Jean not only crafts tourism products as reportages intended to be lived by guests, he is also a regular contributor to CBC Radio and Television programs. Claude-Jean's work has won numerous awards including: the Canadian Ethnic Journalists' and Writers' Club award. He is a former Commonwealth Relations Trust bursar. His work was nominated for a UNESCO Award; and in 2004, he was admitted to the degree of Master of Arts in Archaeology and Heritage with Distinction at the University of Leicester in the United Kingdom.
