Great Excursions Home Oct 7, 2008

Canada to South East Alaska Coastal Cruising Aventure

9, 10 and 11-Day Trips

Experience Alaska as few can ever do! Watch as a 40-ton humpback whale launches itself out of the ocean in Frederick Sound, turns gracefully in the air, then lands on its back in a thunderous cascade of water; see brown bears fishing for salmon in a rushing river; float among icebergs as a part of a glacier tumbles into the sea.

Nothing compares to an enormous whale and her calf surfacing along side your boat and blowing geysers of mist into the air. Visit a bear-viewing platform and watch grizzlies and eagles feed on spawning salmon. Admiralty Island National Monument has more brown bears and eagles per square mile than anywhere in North America, for that matter, the world. In addition to the wildlife, Southeast Alaska has been home to Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian natives for thousands of years, and their cultures will astound, inform and entertain.

How this holiday makes a difference:

Operating a sailing vessel brings a number of challenges from an environmental impact point of view, which we try to minimize through refuse management practices that are the focus of many discussions on-board, on land and at the office. We recycle glass and tin along the coast, in the small communities we work out of. Tin, glass and cardboard in some cases require us to hop in a cab because the recycling facility is outside of town. Oil recycling is imperative and responsible disposal is essential.

For plastics, this is more difficult, when attempts are made to measure how the carbon footprint created by hauling plastics back to port compares to flying them back from the outermost regions we work in, where there is just no economy of scale for recycling plastics. Paper is a major issue. We find that burning paper along the ocean shores at low tide is a better choice than adding to very small landfill sites on remote islands. The tide washes it up in the next cycle.

We also compost out in deeper water. There are all sorts of marine organisms like crabs that are detritus feeders. Some of the organic matter, like orange peels, will float, so we avoid composting those in places that are more densely populated like the Gulf Islands.

All the lights on-board are 12-Volt, so they run off the batteries. We don’t have incandescent lights; everything is compact fluorescent. The efficiency of our conventional power train is enhanced by the shape of sailing vessels which are slender and foster easier movement through the water than more blunt hulls.

In all Canadian areas that are part of First Nations territory, we work collaboratively with them. In the Great Bear Rainforest—the most tangible example—we signed protocol agreements with two First Nations that carry 90% of our operating area. Hartley Bay’s Gitga’at people is one; and the Kitasoo Native Band at Klemtu is the other. Our activities generate $10 per person per night as a fee that is paid for the use of their territory. It is our recognition of their historic rights. We are committed to hiring local guides. At Hartley Bay, on all of our Great Bear Rainforest trips, we will spend a day with a guide hired through the Gitga’at development corporation. Typically, that is a Spirit bear-focused experience.

We are committed to buying our food for the trips in local communities, despite this being at times a challenge for our cooks, because supplies are not as dependable and more menu flexibility is required as a result.

There are 4 crew members, the captain, the chef, our resource person who is typically a biologist, and then our mate who assists the others, runs the zodiacs, assists with the kayaks and sails. We have an on-going wildlife log so all significant sightings are catalogued. We are travelling in parts of the coast that researchers seldom get to. For 20 years, we have been doing marine mammal sightings in conjunction with the Vancouver Aquarium and the Department of Fisheries and Oceans’ Pacific Biological Station in Nanaimo.

“Appreciate wilderness, respect wildlife and native cultures”


We only travel in small groups of 12-16 guests. Small groups can watch in awe as a bear feeds on salmon. Smaller boats can float silently among the whales.

We adhere to the principals of ecotourism. We support local communities, promote conservation, ensure our practices are low impact, and provide guests with world-class knowledge about the coast, the wildlife and Native cultures. We travel together in a relaxed, fun style (our lives are here to be enjoyed). We contribute to a variety of whale and seabird research programs and support conservation groups working to protect coastal wilderness.

On each trip we are committed to introducing participants to the wonders of nature. An experienced naturalist leads daily walks ashore and often provides short evening slide shows or presentations. Participants find learning engages their curiosity, and enriches the trip immensely.

On all our voyages we intentionally keep our itineraries flexible to take advantage of wildlife sightings, weather and tides, and the interests of the group.

These sample itineraries describe typical trips. Activities, however, may occur in a different order or be substituted by suitable alternatives. Wildlife is wild life and may not necessarily conform to our schedules.

Trip Clothing and Equipment List:

Clothing and Bedding:

Most Important Items (see notes)

  • sleeping bag (or sheets and blankets)
  • pillow case - we supply the pillow
  • rain jacket with hat or attached hood (waterproof)
  • rain pants (waterproof)
  • rubber boots (knee height, any style)
  • towel
  • personal medication

(clearly labelled)
shoes (soft soled and non-marking for wearing on deck)
warm jacket
warm sweater
warm hat
warm gloves or mittens
long underwear

Personal Items:

sunglasses
spare eyeglasses
personal toiletry, soap,
shampoo
suntan lotion

Optional:


reading materials
camera and high speed film (for low light)
extra camera battery
sketching materials
diary or note paper
bird book, field guides
binoculars or spotting scope
small backpack
small flashlight or headlamp
water bottle (for shore excursions)

Notes:

  • We ask that you bring a sleeping bag, as there are no facilities for laundry onboard. If you are taking a trip in the Spring or Fall a warm sleeping bag is recommended.

  • Rain gear needs to be completely waterproof and strong enough to stand up to wear. Rubber boots should be comfortable. Knee high boots will ensure dry feet. Expect daily use stepping ashore from small boats at the ocean's edge and walking in west coast rainforest.

  • We cannot accommodate suitcases aboard the boat and ask that your clothing and equipment be brought aboard in soft sided, compressible bags, for example duffel bags or some other soft case that can be easily stowed.

  • Be prepared to dress in layers to accommodate changes in weather. Good warm outer clothing (including warm hat and gloves or mittens) and good rain clothing allows you to remain comfortable in windy or wet conditions. A good, light thermal layer can go along way to providing comfort. (Remember the whales don't stop just because it's raining).

  • Please be aware that there may be weight restrictions for floatplanes, if your trip includes this option. If you are concerned about seasickness your doctor can recommend medications designed to prevent motion sickness.


Personal Identification Needed:

Passengers will require a valid passport when crossing the US/CDN border for all trips.

What's Included:

All meals from lunch on the first day to breakfast on the last day; all accommodation onboard ship; skipper, cook, naturalist; full use of all onboard facilities.

Not Included:

Transportation to the start point and from the finish point of the trip; any accommodation or meals prior to the start of the trip or after the completion; travel or cancellation insurance; airport transfers. The only money participants require during the trip is for optional purchases and gratuities for the crew.

Package Price:
4450.00 Can./Person
0.00 U.S./Person

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Location: Prince Rupert to South East Alaska
Weather: Warm summers
        cold winters

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Day 1

Prince Rupert-South East Alaska

2008 Departures:

8-Days: $4195.00
August 4 to August 11 (Petersburg - Juneau)
August 13 to August 20 (Juneau– Petersburg) Full

9-Days: $4450.00

July 12 to July 20 (Prince Rupert - Petersburg)
July 21 to July 29 (Petersburg – Prince Rupert) Full
August 22 to August 30 (Petersburg - Ketchikan)

10-Days: $4625.00
July 2 to July 11 (Wrangell - Sitka)
July 13 to July 22 (Sitka-Wrangell) Full
July 24 to August 2 (Wrangell – Petersburg)

11-Days: $4995.00
June 19 to June 29 (Prince Rupert – Petersburg)
June 30 to July 10 (Petersburg - Prince Rupert)

Join us aboard the sailing-vessel, “Island Odyssey” as we explore the natural history and Native American heritage of Southeast Alaska. Our highlights will be days watching humpback whales, bears feeding on salmon in a rushing river, fascinating native totem poles, and a journey up a spectacular mountain fjord to find icebergs and a majestic glacier at the end.

Most of our voyage will be in the Tongass National Forest - the largest National Forest in North America. We will go ashore daily to find beautiful forest walks, tumbling waterfalls, and hike up to alpine meadows and bogs. With the onboard naturalist, we will explore for shoreline intertidal creatures and keep a daily record of the various species of birds, plants, and marine mammals we observe. The daily itinerary is intentionally flexible to meet group interests, weather patterns, and of course, to take full advantage of wildlife sightings.

These voyages in Southeast Alaska sail one-way between Prince Rupert, BC and Petersburg, AK. Trips alternate directions - northwards first, followed next by a southwards trip. The itinerary that follows describes a northward trip starting in Prince Rupert, BC. A southwards trip, starting in Petersburg would visit the same highlights in approximately the reverse order.

Sample Itinerary

Day 1:

Upon arrival participants are assigned cabins, and receive an introduction and safety orientation. Departing Prince Rupert we see the old native settlement of Metlakatla. The entrance to Portland Canal marks the border between Alaska and British Columbia... Canada and the United States. Sailing past Misty Fjords National Monument, we enjoy the beautiful scenery of snowcapped mountains rising majestically out of the ocean. Each night we will anchor in a new scenic bay.

Day 2:

Cruising up Revillagigedo Channel, past the historic Native American settlement of Saxman, our first major stop will be at Ketchikan. In the late 1800’s the lucrative cannery industry earned Ketchikan the title of “Salmon Capital of the World”. We will have time to walk the old boardwalk “streets” and the ambitious may proceed further to the Totem Heritage Center, to see original totem poles collected from deserted Tlingit and Haida villages.

On Prince of Wales Island is the small, seldom visited Haida village of New Kasaan. We will walk a lovely forest trail to view original and recarved totem poles from Old Kasaan. Chief Sonihat’s big house from the last century is a highlight with its carved interior poles - an excellent example of Haida art and architecture.

Day 3:

Among the narrow passages east of Etolin Island and Wrangell Island is Anan Bay. Anan Creek has the largest run of pink salmon in Southeast Alaska, and this accumulation of food attracts bears, eagles and seals. This is one of the famous sites in Alaska where the US Forest Service has built a wildlife and bear observatory. The opportunity to watch black bears, and often brown bears, fishing for salmon in a rushing river is a classic Alaska moment - and certainly a trip highlight. We are extremely lucky to be able to visit. Access is limited to protect the wildlife and local habitat.

Day 4:

From the open vistas of Sumner Strait we enter Wrangell Narrows – 21 miles long, and only 500 yards wide at many points. This waterway offers interesting navigation and excellent opportunities to view eagles and other wildlife along both shores. Here our route coincides with the famous "Inside Passage" and we may see large ferries or tugs towing enormous barges close at hand.

Days 5-10:

Frederick Sound is the core feeding area for humpback whales in Southeast Alaska. We will see large numbers of humpback whales on a daily basis. The trip is scheduled to spend at least 5 days in Frederick Sound to explore, observe humpback whales... and to try to catch that perfect photograph. Local researchers track the movements of the whales, and study the fascinating feeding techniques. We never know when to expect spectacular whale encounters and behavior. Admiralty Island (National Monument) offers some beautiful evening anchorages and the possibility of bears walking along the shore.

After the adrenaline of humpback whales, we sail deep into the mountains to view a tidewater glacier. Enormous rock walls rise majestically up to snowy peaks and waterfalls tumble thousands of feet into the sea as we head up Tracy Arm. Approaching the marvelous Sawyer glacier icebergs float by, many with seals perched on top. LeConte Bay has the southern most tidewater glacier in North America. Our choice of glacier will depend on the weather and ice conditions.

Day 11:

On the last morning we sail into Petersburg, Alaska to complete our voyage. Petersburg, known as "little Norway" is a delightful town to explore. The Clausen Memorial Museum gives a history of this community and has interesting exhibits on fishing and fishing techniques.

If you have time in Prince Rupert you can visit the Museum of Northern British Columbia on First Avenue a few blocks from the downtown airport terminal. The museum also organizes a tour to see native petroglyphs, a half hour boat trip away. The North Pacific Cannery - 20 minutes out of town - has interesting displays on historic salmon fishing and canning operations.


Southeast Alaska

Alaska is wilderness. One-fifth the size of the continental United States, Alaska has the highest coastal mountain range in the world. Over one-half of the world’s glaciers cover these mountains and Alaska is one of only three places in the world where tidewater glaciers exist. Wildlife abounds with whales, bears, moose, and eagles. Heavily forested, with over three million lakes, Alaska is a vast, beautiful and truly wild place.

Southeast Alaska (the “Panhandle”) is the jewel in Alaska’s coastal crown. Its warm climate and abundant wildlife have always encouraged habitation. At first it was the native peoples – Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian – followed by Russian, British and American fur traders. Today, some 60,000 Alaskans live in five major centres, and are scattered in tiny communities along the 300 mile length of Southeast Alaska. Man is still a recent visitor to this immense wilderness area.

We will explore some of Southeast Alaska’s very special places. The relatively small size of our vessel will allow us to cruise through narrow tidal inlets to bays where towering glaciers calve into the ocean. Seals sleep on icebergs that drift past our hull. The schedule is relaxed and flexible. When we encounter wildlife, we stop to watch.

Tongass National Forest


Most of Southeast Alaska is part of the Tongass National Forest – the largest National Forest in America – and managed by the US Forest Service. A National Forest, by definition, is managed for mixed-use – recreation, forestry, wildlife and ecological values. Historically, Forest Service management of the “Tongass” has been surrounded by controversy. Large scale forestry and clear-cut logging (visible from miles away) conflict with the wilderness values that bring visitors from around the world.

Whale Watching & Marine Mammals

One of the principal focuses of this trip will be the observation of marine mammals, and specifically humpback whales. The humpbacks winter in the warm waters of Mexico and Hawaii, to mate and calve, feeding rarely. Every summer they migrate north to feed on herring and tiny krill, that blossom with the sunlight. Up to 100 humpback whales gather to feed in these rich northern waters. Once one of the most abundant whale’s worldwide, humpback whale populations suffered tremendously under whaling, and are now on the endangered list.

One of the larger whales, humpbacks grow to 50 feet in length and 45 tons in weight.Humpback Whales Bubble Net The sight of 45 tons of whale launching itself right out of the water – a behaviour called breaching – is truly an amazing spectacle. The splash can be seen miles away. In addition, scientists have learned that the humpbacks use various coordinated feeding techniques. One such technique (as described in National Geographic) is commonly referred to as “bubble net feeding”. A whale circles under the water letting out a stream of rising bubbles. The bubbles act as a solid wall or net to concentrate krill or small fish in the center. Then the entire group of whales explodes up through the center of the ‘net’ (and concentration of food) with their 13’ mouths open, and surfaces with a roar. We have observed groups of up to 12 animals “bubble-net feeding” together.

Killer whales or orcas are now divided by whale researchers into three types. ‘Residents’ travel in large groups and eat mostly salmon. The second group, called ‘transient’ whales, travel alone or in small groups, and hunt other marine mammals. A new group, termed ‘offshore whales’ by whale researchers has recently been discovered in outer waters of the coast. Orcas travel in family units called “pods”. They travel miles every day and are often close to shore. We could encounter them anywhere and anytime during the trip, so keeping a good eye out can make the difference. Another highlight is Dall’s porpoise, which often come over and play under the bow. Steller sea lions haul out along the rocky shores. Males can weigh up to 2000 lbs. Stellers have been placed on the endangered species list in western Alaska, and scientists do not know why the population is declining so fast.

Native Peoples

The islands of Southeast Alaska are home to three linguistic groups of native people. The Tlingit are the largest group, historically inhabiting most of what is today the “pan-handle”. The Tshimshian lived along the rivers, such as the Skeena – the arteries of trade into the interior mountains. The Haida people originated on the Queen Charlotte Islands, but moved north to inhabit the southern “pan-handle” in recent times. Each group holds in common similar traditions – the carving of totem poles, the great longhouses, and the potlatch ceremony.

Some of the old villages are still inhabited. The Tlingit communities of Angoon and Kake, and the Haida village of Kasaan are often along our route. Other sites have been abandoned for the forest to reclaim. In the larger communities we can see some of the finest totem poles, moved from the old villages for safekeeping. As magnificent art, they still captivate the observer. There are fascinating petroglyph (rock carving) and pictograph (rock painting) sites throughout the area.

History

The Russians, led by Vitus Bering were the first non-natives to discover the wealth of Alaska. The discovery of the sea otter with its incredibly rich pelt started a rush to the North Pacific. The Russians set up their capital at Sitka, near Frederick Sound and for many years it flourished. The British Hudson Bay Company trading posts spread from the Columbia River in the south, right across the continent. For a time, they operated Fort Stikine, at the present site of Wrangell. With the sale of Alaska to the United States in 1867, a new era began.

Gold was discovered in the Yukon, and the Inside Passage from Seattle was one of the major routes for the prospectors. Many never made it to the gold fields, and settled along the coast. Salmon brought the next ‘rush’, and for a period there were canneries in every small community. Salmon stocks became seriously depleted. Now careful management and enhancement programs must take a long-term approach.

Glaciers

A glacier is a vast accumulation of snow and ice slowly flowing downhill from a mountainIsland Roamer by Glacier ice field. Continuously flowing downhill, it scrapes the earth, picking up rocks and sediment and slowly forms deep, U-shaped valleys. Glaciers that advance far enough eventually reach the sea, and are called tidewater glaciers. They break off, or calve, directly into salt water. All glaciers are in a constant state of change caused by increases or decreases in precipitation and temperature.

When the accumulation of snow is greater than the amount lost to melting or calving, the glacier advances. If accumulation is less, the glacier retreats – leaving behind land as raw as the beginning of time. Most of the glaciers we will see stem from the massive Stikine Ice Field, sitting high in the Coast Mountains, east of Petersburg and Wrangell.

Bear Viewing

Alaska is one of the few refuges left in North America for the grizzly or brown bear. On Admiralty Island, it is calculated there is one brown bear every square mile – almost as many Brown Bear viewing in Alaska bears as there are eagles. Some of the larger islands in Southeast Alaska have only brown bears – black bears and wolves having been relegated to the mainland by a peculiarity of glaciations. Every spring bears leave hibernation and feed on the new vegetation growing around waterways. By midsummer, when the salmon start to spawn up the many creeks, the bears congregate for the easy fishing and ripening berries.

The US Forest Service has set up several bear observatories for research and viewing. At Anan Creek, it is possible to view both black and brown bears. To see bears fishing for salmon in a rushing river is truly one of the classic Alaska sights. The salmon leap upstream against the current to meet their destiny. The bears stand deep in the water equally intent on theirs.

Wild bears require our respect. Most have had little if any contact with humans. Care is required to be safe around all wild animals. These magnificent creatures have not learned to live with human development. Instead, their range continues to shrink back. The question of whether humans and the magnificent brown bear can co-exist is still up for debate.

Itinerary Information

We do not produce a detailed day by day itinerary in advance of the trip. Our daily plans are flexible to accommodate the surprises that occur each trip, the requirements of tide and weather, and the interests of the group. Wildlife is wildlife and have their own agenda. When we encounter wildlife we often change our plans so that we can spend time watching.

Different areas of Southeast Alaska offer different highlights. Each trip is unique and cannot include all the possible highlights described. If there are certain highlights that you wish to experience please contact our office so that we may help you choose which trip best suits your dream.

Meals

A professional cook (who may be one of the resource guides) is in charge of all of the cooking during the trip. We carry ample quantities of fresh vegetables, fruits, meats, grains, and dairy products for the duration of the trip. Meals are served buffet-style. We are confident that you will be fully impressed with the variety and excellence of the meals that are prepared for you. Complimentary wines will be served with dinner. There is no bar onboard to purchase additional drinks. Guests are responsible and welcome to bring their own cocktail, beer and soft drinks.